Owning a Horse
Ownership Costs
There are many financial obligations that come with owning a horse. You need to recognize the expenses and be financially prepared to meet the costs. It would be impossible to give the exact costs because depending on your situation, your skills, your taste, and just the variance in costs everyone’s expenses will be different. Below are the estimated annual maintenance costs of owning one horse for a year. These numbers are not completely accurate but they give a ballpark figure:
Horse $5,100 (registered) or $2, 336 (grade)
Acreage $9,975 (2 acres)
Barn/ Stable $3,907 per horse
Arenas/fencing $1,992
Trailer $715
Vehicle $2, 973
Veterinary fees $87
Veterinary medications $53
Veterinary supplies $100
Grooming supplies $50
Hay and grain $841
Farrier $277
Clothing(riding/showing) $1,518
Saddles/tack $190
Insurance $460
Stable utilities $130
A horse eats about 2% of its body weight so a 1000 pound horse would eat about 20 pounds of hay per day.
Insurance
If people ride your horses on your place you will want insurance. If you travel a lot and your horse is worth a lot you will want insurance. Some types of horse insurance are as follows: mortality, peril policy (fire lightening, and transportation), liability, and workmen’s comp. You might consider fertility, in utero, or medical insurance.
Basic Facilities and Care
Whether you rent a stall and board your horse at a stable or keep them on a small acreage behind your house, safety and cleanliness are important factors to keep in mind. If you are looking for somewhere to board your horse, here are some questions that should be asked:
· Are there well taken care of facilities to ride and exercise your horse in?
· Is the manure removed regularly from their stalls?
· Are there dogs or other animals present on the place?
· Is the facility generally trash and garbage free?
· Are people allowed to smoke on the premises?
· Are the fences kept in good repair?
· Are the gates such that the horses can’t open them themselves?
· Do they require the horses to have standard immunization shots?
· What do they do if a horse gets sick? Is it quarantined?
· Do they control the flies and bugs?
· What is their regular feeding schedule?
· Are the stalls disinfected in between horses?
· Do they provide clean water from a good source?
· What do they use for bedding materials?
· Are the feed mangers kept clean and are they safe?
· Are the stalls an appropriate size?
· Are the buildings and grounds kept clean and hazard free?
· Do the owners or managers seem like honest and responsible people?
Careers with Horses
“There are a wide variety of careers in the horse industry. Some involve working directly with horses, whereas others deal with goods and services needed by the horse industry. Some require extensive practical experience and knowledge of horses; others expect only general knowledge.” (Evans, 2001, p. 7) Below are some very general and broad categories in the horse industry: race track, breeding farm, riding stable, training, shows, business, medical, academic, law, allied industries, breed association, and therapeutic riding for the disabled.
Business or Hobby
A question that should be seriously considered before you purchase any horses is whether or not owning horses is for business or just for a hobby. This one question will greatly change the perspective you have on owning horses. If it is a business you will need to look into developing your business plan, setting up a separate bank account, keeping a log of the time spent, insurance, etc.
Selecting and Buying a Horse
Locating a Horse to Buy
If you are going to buy a horse, you first need to know some good sources to be able to locate what you want. Friends that own horses or have a career around are generally a good source. But if they sell you something that doesn’t work for you there could be some hard feelings. Your local veterinarian may be someone good to tell what you are looking for because he works with people who own horse’s everyday and might know of something for sale. Buying a horse from a producer and breeder can be a really good source. Attending their production sale is an excellent source because they will try and sell their very best and represent their horses honestly because they have a reputation to keep up and they want people to come back every year and buy more horses. Trainers can be a good source but make sure they have a reputation of being honest. Newspapers and online classified ads such as Craigslist can be good sources if you have some knowledge or have someone with some experience to help you. Auctions, dealers, and breeding farms are also sources. You can get a bad deal anywhere you go but there are some places that get a reputation of selling low quality or misrepresented horses. Anywhere you purchase a horse you need to be cautious, observant, and thorough with your evaluation of the horse and probably the owner too.
Evaluating a Horse
In the book, Horses, the author suggests inquiring about “registered or grade, age, sex, health, personality, size, training, vices, loading and hauling, whether the horse has been kept in stall or in pasture, compatibility with other horses, period of time owned by the current owner, and approval for vet check” when you are evaluating a horse to buy. (Evans, 2001, p. 14)
Cost Factors
Before you even start shopping for a horse you need to decide how much money you can afford to spend on a horse then try and find the horse for that price that will fill all your needs. Try and be wise and realistic when setting a price. You should really try and buy the best horse for the price you can afford because it’ll cost the same whether you’re feeding a worthless nag or a horse that fulfills your needs and is just perfect for you.
Breed. Horses with proven bloodlines almost always cost more money than grade horses or horses with poor bloodlines. The breed can affect the price of the horse greatly. Before you shop for a horse you need to research and see what breed of horse would best suit your needs. For example, if you want to only go pleasure and trail riding, a Tennessee Walker or Paso Fino walking horse would probably be best. But if you wanted to compete in western pleasure or do some rodeo or work on a ranch, you would need a Quarter Horse. If you wanted to pull a buggy or wagon you may want to look into purchasing a Draft Horse. There are breeds that you will not want for specific reasons and there are one’s that would work great for your needs. You have to decide what you need.
Sex. The sex of the horse can definitely influence the cost. Geldings are the most popular probably because they are generally much calmer and more reliable than a stud and you don’t have to worry about mares being in heat around him. Mares do come in and out of heat and they have mood swings and that can create problems. Most people would rather not deal with these problems so they resort to geldings. Depending on bloodlines, training, and all the other factors, any sex can be very expensive. Right now in the horse industry common mares are very cheap.
Training. This has a huge influence on the price of a horse depending on the level of training and their accomplishments. “Many horses command very high prices because of their past, current, or potential performances or training for certain types of performance.” (Evans, 2001, p. 16)
Age. A horse is at their peak in training, development, and performance between 5-10 years of age. This is when they are worth the most. A younger horse is generally worth less because of the risk and the future investment of time and money. If you are inexperienced you should start on an older and more experienced horse and if you are experienced you should be able to handle a horse with less experience.
Size. Horses are measured in hands and a hand is equivalent to 4 inches. You measure from the highest point of the withers to the ground. Small horses (ponies) are usually cheaper because their ability to do things is limited and a child will eventually out grown them.
Color. Some people are willing to pay a premium for a certain color but that is generally in the show, parade, and breeding world. If you only want one color of horse you will have a harder time finding the horse that fits your needs.
Conformation. This category can affect the price greatly. A horse that has good conformation is just plain worth more than a horse with the same training that has poor conformation. Without good conformation a horse will not be able to perform as well and its appearance can be distracting.
Market Value. AEI means average-earnings index (a comparison of how much his offspring earned, 1.0 is average) and CI comparable index (comparison of how the stallions progeny compares with the same mares offspring when breed to a different stud).
Multiple Ownerships. This is called syndicate and it is when a horse is too expensive and his insurance is too high for one owner to pay so several people will buy shares of the horse (usually a stallion). This spreads out the costs and risks. Depending on the contract, each share holder is entitled to have so many mares breed each year to the stud.
Age “The young horse is referred to as a foal until it is weaned. The male horse is called a colt until it is three years of age, when it is called a stallion. Young female horses are called fillies until they are three years old, at which time they are referred to as mares. Some horse people refer to horses that are 6 months to 1 year of age as weanlings, 1-2 years as yearlings, and 2 years of age as 2-year-olds.” (Evans, 2001, p. 31) Some people make the mistake of buying a horse too young and then they don’t know what to do with it. Probably the ideal age for most people to buy a horse is in between 4-12 years old. Once a horse is beyond 12 years old their usefulness is limited but there are some major exceptions. The Lippizan stallions perform up into their twenties and many of the horses competing at the NFR are in their mid teens. If a horse is well cared for and is sound, age doesn’t matter as much.
Teeth and Age.
Horses have hypsodont teeth which means they are continually growing and being worn down and the enamel is spread throughout the tooth. You can tell by the appearance of a horses teeth and the way they are worn just how old they are. But this is not completely accurate because their environment and the quality of their feed and other factors make a difference how their teeth wear out. This method is quite accurate until they are 5 and then can be fairly accurate up until they are about 10 but past that it really gets cloudy. You must try and consider all the factors when aging a horse by its teeth.
A horse can be born with their central incisor teeth and some premolars or they will come in within the first week or two. These first set of teeth, which are called deciduous (milk or baby) teeth, are getting replaced with permanent teeth by the time they horse is 2 ½. This process continues for all the teeth: the first ones that came in at birth will be the first to fall out and be replaced with permanent teeth. The following table was taken from Horses by J. Warren Evans, and will explain the succession of teeth clearly.
“The Average Times When Teeth Erupt”
Tooth: Eruption:
Deciduous:
1st incisor (or centrals) Birth or first week
2nd incisor (or intermediate) 4 to 6 weeks
3rd incisor (or corners) 6 to 9 months
1st premolar Birth or first 2 weeks for all premolars
2nd premolar
3rd premolar
Permanent:
1st incisor (or centrals) 2½ years
2nd incisor (or intermediate) 3½ years
3rd incisor (or corners) 4½ years
Canine (or bridle) 4 to 5 years
1st premolar (or wolf tooth) 5 to 6 months
2nd premolar 2½ years
3rd premolar 3 years
4th premolar 4 years
1st molar 9 to 12 months
2nd molar 2 years
3rd molar 3½ to 4 years
By the time the horse is 5 years old they are said to have a full mouth of teeth. A mature male will have 40 teeth and a mature mare will have 36-40 depending on whether her canines erupted (the canine tooth (bridle tooth) only erupts in about 20-25% of mares).
There are 4 canine teeth, 24 premolars and molars, and 12 incisors. The wolf tooth is a tooth that only some horses have and it is the first premolar that has a very shallow root on it. It is commonly pulled.
Retrieved from: http://www.gutenberg.org/files/23403/23403-h/23403-h.htm
With the wear and grinding motion of the horses teeth it slowly wears all these layers down/
Cup- on top of the tooth where the enamel dishes in and forms a pit
Cement- fills the cup
Pulp Cavity/ Dental Star- contains the nerve and blood supply and appears around 8-10 yrs. Moves towards the center of the tooth the more it gets worn and takes on a round dark appearance.
Smooth-mouthed- a horse is called this by the time they are 11-12 because they have worn down the cups on their teeth
Past 12 years old it is difficult to tell the age of a horse but there are three things used to help: the incisive arcade, the table surface shape, and Galvayne’s groove. Below in the picture it shows the incisive arcade or the angle of the incisors from a profile shot. In the above picture it shows how the shape of the tooth as it gets worn down changes from flat, oval, round, to triangular. Then in the below picture it shows the Galvayne’s groove which appears on the upper corner incisor at the gum line as a vertical dark line. It generally begins to appear around 9-10 years of age. As the tooth erupts the groove moves down and will disappear (they are old when this happens).
Gaits
“A gait is the horse’s manner of moving its legs during progression.” (Evans, 2001, p. 18) It is important to have a good understanding of gaits. When you thoroughly understand them you will be able to detect lameness easier, or train and compete on performance horses, or successfully know how to cue a horse for a specific purpose. There are several gaits that a horse uses but they are divided into two categories: natural and artificial (learned).
Natural and Artificial Gaits.
Walk. A four-beat gait. The sequence is (1) left hind, (2) left fore, (3) right hind, (4) right fore. Both feet on one side strike the ground before the other side.
Flat-Foot Walk. A four-beat gait. This walk is a little faster than the ordinary walk and is the natural walk of the Tennessee Walking Horse.
Running Walk. A four-beat gait. This walk is faster than the previous walks mentioned. This is the fast walk of the Tennessee Walking Horse. The hind foot oversteps the hoof print of the forefoot by about 12-18 inches but can be as much as 50 inches. The horse moves in a gliding smooth motion and its head moves up and down and keeps rhythm with its feet. This walk is not strenuous on the horse and they can keep it up for long periods of time.
Rack. A four-beat gait. The rack is faster than the running walk. It is popular for showing because their forelegs are brought up high creating a flashy appearance. This walk cannot be maintained for long periods though.
Trot. A two-beat gait. The diagonals move together and strike the ground at the same time. The sequence is front right and back left then front left and back right. There’s a period of suspension in between beats where all four feet are off the ground.
Pace. A two-beat gait. The lateral legs strike the ground at the same time. There’s a period of suspension in between beats where all four feet are off the ground. There’s a rolling motion to this gait because the horse is shifting its weight from side to side.
Canter or Lope. A three-beat gait. In the left lead the sequence is (1) right hindleg, (2) left hindleg and right foreleg, and (3) left foreleg. “A period of suspension follows the beat of the left foreleg. If the horse is being circled to the left, it should be in the left lead to maintain its balance. If turned to the right, the horse should change leads to the right lead. The changes of leads occur during the period of suspension. When changing to the right lead from the left lead, the left hindleg strikes the ground after the suspension period.” (Evans, 2001, p. 23) Horses naturally change leads when they are not under a saddle but must be trained to start in a certain lead and switch leads on cue or as trained to do.
Run. A four-beat gait. This gait is “similar to the canter except that the paired diagonals do not land at the same time. The lead limbs bear the full weight of the horse. In the left lead the sequence of beats is (1) right hindleg, (2) left hindleg, (3) right foreleg, (4) left foreleg. A period of suspension follows the four beats. If the horse changes leads, it will do so during the period of suspension.” (Evans, 2001, p. 24)
Back. A two-beat gait. “A horse backs by trotting in reverse, using a two-beat gait in which the diagonal pairs work together.” (Evans, 2001, p. 24)
Terms.
Beat. Afoot or two feet striking the ground at the same time.
Step. “The distance between the imprints of the two forelegs or the two hind legs.”
(Evans, 2001, p. 18)
Stride. “The distance between successive imprints of the same foot. During every stride, each leg goes through two phases: (1) In stance or weight bearing phase and (2) the swing or non-weight bearing phase.” (Evans, 2001, p. 18)
Sequence. When all four feet have moved and then a new sequence begins.
Swing. Moving through the air
Airborne. It’s airborne and holds it for just a split second
Stance. When it’s on the ground bearing weight
Common Defects in Gaits.
Defects in gaits are most commonly caused by the following: the conformation of the horse, injuries, fatigue, improper shoeing, or improper trimming of their feet. When a horse travels, some defects are obvious but some are not. Following are some terms that are important to be familiar with:
· Cross firing- inside of the hindfoot strikes the diagonal foreleg
· Forging- toe of the hindfoot strikes the sole of the forefoot (same side)
· Interference- one foreleg strikes the other foreleg (usually the result of poor conformation)
· Paddling (winging out)- outward swing of the forefeet (usually toe narrow horses paddle)
· Pounding- causes damage to the forelegs because of the heavy contact with the ground (also a conformation issue)
· Rolling- the shoulders move excessively from side to side
· Scalping- top of the hindfoot hits the toe of the forefoot (As the impact moves up the leg other names are used: scalping, speedy cutting, shin hitting, hock hitting)
· Trappy gait- a short, quick, choppy stride. Sometimes it is a sign of unsoundness (navicular disease)
· Winding- moving the foreleg in front of the other foreleg (interference and stumbling occur)
Breeding the Horse
Stallion
The stallion hits puberty between 11 and 15 months of age. Stallions are not usually used for breeding until they are 4-5 years old but they can breed by the time they are a year old. Reproductive Tract.
Retrieved from: http://www.extension.org/pages/11366/stallion-anatomy-exam
The stallion’s reproductive tract is made up of the following:
· Scrotum- is the pouch which contains the two testes.
· Testicle- there are two testes and they produce the male hormone testosterone
· Epididymis- is attached on the side of the testes and is composed of three parts: the head, body, and tail. This is where sperm is produced, matured, and stored.
· Vas Deferens- is the carrier for the sperm from the epididymis to the urethra.
· Penis- in an average size stallion it is about 50 cm. long in a relaxed position. The end is bell shaped during erection.
· Prepuce- also known as the sheath is a double fold of skin that covers the exposed penis. It is necessary to clean occasionally to prevent infection.
Semen Production and Characteristics.
Stallion semen is whitish gray in color and the first of 8-10 ejaculations contain the most sperm cells and the last few ejaculations contain very few sperm cells and mostly gel to seal in the sperm. Sperm is produced in the seminiferous tubules and it goes to the tail of the epididymis then the body and then it is stored in the head of the epididymis. It matures in the epididymis.
The anatomy of the sperm cell is made up of a head, middle piece, and tail. The sperm cell would be considered deformed if any of the following applies: the tail is bent, free, looped, or doubled; the head is pear-shaped, narrow at the base, small, doubled, or giant; the midpiece is swollen or enlarged.
Retrieved from: http://www.extension.org/pages/29121/the-stallion:-breeding-soundness-examination-and-reproductive-anatomy
Semen Collection, Processing, Evaluation, and Storage.
To collect semen from a stallion you can use a phantom mount or a live mare. It is absolutely necessary to have at least two people helping with this process. First you will want to clean the sheath and scrotum on the stallion with warm water. Then with some sort of constraint on the stallion, such as a halter, you will encourage him to mount the phantom or mare. It is best to approach him from the left side as that is the side he is most comfortable with you being on. Then as he begins to ejaculate you will grab his penis with one hand and direct it into the A.V. which you will be holding with the other hand. The water temperature in the artificial vagina (A.V.) should be between 111- 118 Fahrenheit. It is important to keep the water within these numbers because if your water is too hot it will kill the sperm cells or if it is too cold it will give the sperm cold shock so it doesn’t move and the stallion won’t ejaculate if it’s cold. The stallion will ejaculate 8-10 times and the last few jets of semen will be full of mucous which would seal the cervix to hold the sperm in if this was natural service. At the end of the A.V. is the collection bottle which you will take and filter out the gel and add the extender which is basically made up of glucose, protein, and antibiotics. Depending on your set up, you would do one of the following: take the semen, divide it up among however many mares that are in heat, load the syringe, and insert it in the vagina and through the cervix of the prepared and cleaned mare or take the semen into the lab and while you keep it warm at 100 degrees Fahrenheit, do an evaluation of the semen which includes motility, concentration, morphology, and volume. (Some of the tools you need: pipet (long straw), sterile glove, tail wrap, syringe, A.V., extender, lube, bucket of clean water, filter for the gel, phantom or mare, collection bottle.)
To evaluate the semen you will need to understand what the following terms mean: Sperm volume should be between 9-75 milliliters. This will be influenced by the stallion, the time of year, and the frequency of ejaculation. Motility is the movement of the sperm cells. The motility needs to be between 60-100 % and 70% is considered quite good. If it is below 50% the stallion’s fertility might be questioned. The concentration of the semen is very important when it comes to fertility. Concentration can be from 30-800 million in one gel free milliliter. It ranges between stallions, the season, and the number of ejaculations. During the winter, their concentration is about 50% less than during the breeding season. Morphology is the examination of the sperm cells to determine the count of deformed cells. It is normal to have between 20-30% deformed but over 50% you should question his fertility. The sperm cell would be considered deformed if any of the following applies: the tail is bent, free, looped, or doubled; the head is pear-shaped, narrow at the base, small, doubled, or giant; the midpiece is swollen or enlarged.
Semen can be cooled and shipped but the technical requirements for freezing it are such that it isn’t used but it is becoming more common. The semen is considered viable within 24-48 hours after collection. Some collections can be stored successfully for over 96 hours.
Breeding Soundness Evaluation. It is important to evaluate the stallion before breeding season even starts to see if he is fertile and capable of breeding for the season. Some of the things to look at for in his evaluation is his previous records of conception rates in mares that he has covered. The conception percents for a well managed and fertile stallion should be at least 90%.
Infertility. There are many and various causes of infertility in a stallion. Here is a list of some of the causes: poor nutrition, injury, excessive masturbation, overuse, using a stallion when they are too young, fever, and infection.
Castration. This is the process that makes a stallion a gelding. You remove their testes so they lose their ability to impregnate mares. Most horses are castrated between birth and two years of age. The stallion attitude usually goes away within 4-6 months after castration. If it doesn’t, it is possible something went wrong and he is referred to as “proud cut”.
Cryptorchid. Is a stallion with one or both testes that have not descended into the scrotum. A colt is considered a crypt if his testes have not descended by the time he is 15 months. These can be very difficult to castrate and may require a major surgery. They are also referred to as ridgeling, high flanker, or rig.
Mare
A filly will hit puberty at the age of 12-15 months.
Reproductive Tract.
The reproductive tract of the mare is made up of the following:
· Ovaries- there are two ovaries and they produce hormones and ova (eggs)
· Fallopian tubes- or oviducts are the transport canal between the ovaries and the uterus. They conduct the egg to the uterus and this is where fertilization takes place
· Uterus- it consists of the left and right uterine horn and the uterine body. This is where the fetus grows and matures
· Cervix- is a sphincter muscle that separates the uterine body from the vagina
· Vagina- is about 15-20 cm. long muscular tube that connects the cervix to the vulva. It is very elastic to accommodate the stallion’s penis during breeding.
· Vulva- the external opening of the reproductive tract. The labia are the lips of the vulva on each side of a 5-6 inch vertical slit located below the anus
· Mammary Gland- is the udder of the mare and it consists of two gland complexes and each complex has a broad flat teat
Physiology of Reproduction. Since mares are long day breeders, when the spring comes her hormones start sending messages and she starts growing follicles on her ovaries. There will be one dominant follicle that will burst and the ovum (egg) will come off the ovary. She has started cycling now. The mare's estrous cycle, the period between one ovulation and the next, is about on average 21-23 days long but only about 50% of mares have a normal estrous cycle length (most are longer). Estrus, the time of sexual receptivity or heat, occupies about 4-6 days of the cycle. The duration of estrus varies. Diestrus, the period between two successive estrus periods, lasts about 17-19 days. Ovulation occurs about one to two days before the end of estrus. Ideally, breeding should occur close to the time of ovulation and no more than a day or two before. Breeding more than a few hours after ovulation is usually not very successful. A useful rule of thumb is to breed (cover) mares on the third day of estrus and every other day until they go out of estrus. (For example, this will require three breedings of a mare that stays in estrus for seven days.)
Hormones.
· FSH- follicle stimulating hormone
· GNRH- causes the mare to ovulate
· Estrogen- is highest during estrus
· Progesterone- is highest when the mare is not in estrus but in estrous
· LH- luteinizing hormone- causes ovulation and the formation of the C.L.
· Prostaglandin- kills the C.L.
Signs of Heat.
· Winking of the labia/ vulva
· Raise their tail, squat, and urinate
· During estrus she is more receptive to the stallion but when not she will bite, kick, and chase him
· Will turn her backend towards him
· Clear mucous secretion coming from the vulva
Breeding. To prep a mare to get breed you will wrap the upper half of her tail and clean her vulva and rectum area with warm water. As she stands in a stock or shoot or somewhere secure, someone will hold her tail to the side as the person A.I.ing her will go in through her vagina, with their left arm (covered in a sterile glove) and locate the cervix and go in part way. They will then slide the pipet (straw) up along the side of their arm into the cervix. Then they will continue into the uterine body where they will inject the semen that is attached to the end of the straw in a syringe. Before removing the straw, pull the syringe off and fill it with air and attach it again and inject it up there to get all of the semen out of the straw into the uterus.
Diagnosing a Pregnancy. It is important to find out as quickly as possible if a mare settled because if she didn’t you need to get her breed again. The fertilized egg will drop into the uterus within 6-8 days. You can ultrasound to see as early as 10 days but most prefer to wait 12-14 days. It will still be rolling around the uterus but within the first 8 weeks it will attach to the uterine wall.
Gestation. A mare’s gestation period is 11 months or about 340 days. 340 days is considered a normal gestation period. If she foals before 320 days the colt is considered premature. If she foals after 360 days the colt is considered post term.
Foal Heat. A mare usually has her first heat 7-9 days after foaling. Make sure the mare had a normal delivery before letting her get breed during her foal heat because she may still be healing from giving birth. While lactating, some mares don’t show signs of heat to the stallion. Her hormone changes will often give her foal diarrhea.
Care During and After Pregnancy
Mares rarely experience problems during labor and delivery but if they do it is very serious and will require immediate veterinary assistance.
Some Causes of Abortions.
There are many reasons for a mare to abort her colt. They are as follows:
· hormone levels changing
· genetic deformities in the colt and the mare will just automatically abort it
· her body didn’t recognize the pregnancy,
· poor nutrition, bad feed, poisonous weeds, or foundering on grain
· certain vaccines
· infections- viral or bacterial
· twins, they rarely carry both to full term, they aren’t made to
· her body is not developed enough to keep a pregnancy and keep growing
· injury such as getting kicked or bumped hard
· stress such as a long trip or riding a pregnant mare that is out of shape.
Stages of Labor.
A common sign that the mare is getting close to foaling is when her bag gets full and the Colostrum begins to leak out. She’ll get little wax tips on the end of her teats. The mare will probably foal within the next 6-48 hours. 95% of mares will fall into this range. Another common sign is when the vulva gets loose and swollen. The mare’s whole back end will begin to loosen up and the muscles will relax as they prepare to open everything up for the colt to pass through. They begin to act restless and walk a lot and if the situation permits, they typically leave the herd and get off by themselves.
1st Stage of Labor
· The time for stage one varies from a few minutes to several hours
· They experience waves of contractions starting at the anterior end of their uterus and then moving to their cervix
· Breathing heavy and sweating
· Kicking and looking at their belly
· They generally have 3-4 heavy waves of contractions and then a break
· Their membranes rupture and 2-5 gallons of water come out and stage 1 is complete
2nd Stage of Labor
· Generally lasts 10-30 minutes
· They lay down and get up several times sometimes rolling around trying to position the colt for delivery
· The two front feet appear first with the nose right behind
· With a few more hard contractions the mare has pushed the colt completely out
3rd Stage of Labor
· Stage three begins once the colt is delivered
· Once the colt gets up the cord will break
References
Evans, J.W. (2001). Horses. New York, New York: Holt Paperbacks.
